My December expense report was a mess. In the last two months alone, I’ve taken BBQ scouting trips to Brownsville, McAllen, Harlingen, Corpus Christi, San Antonio, Houston, Austin, Dallas, Fortworth, Gladewater, Marshall, Longview, Lubbock, Sweetwater, Olton and Levelland . Eating at so many new steakhouses, I was reminded of how good we have it in Texas. We publish our monthly list of the 50 Best BBQs in Texas knowing that there are more than fifty places for great barbecue in the state. here are the best bites I’ve enjoyed over the past year outside of our current top 50.
burnt pork belly on all the king’s men, bryan
If any barbecue menu item defined 2018, it was the pork belly/bacon burnt end. they’re pretty much a requirement for new texas barbecues, and they’re all a riff on the original at heim barbecue in fortworth (must we say the #ogbbe). This version is one of the best I have ever eaten. the menu describes their pork belly burnt ends as “confit,” but the sweetness isn’t overwhelming. the thin layer of sauce melts into the melted fat of the pork, and the gush of juice as you bite into one is very satisfying. are perfectly executed.
pork steak at a fancy bar-b-q, hallsville
gabriel and kasie ritter offer a different smoked meat special every day, and on thursday it’s pork steak. fillets are cut from the shoulder. They’re not as thick as the most famous version at Lexington’s Snow BBQ, but they’re also not as thin as the ones you’d find at the grocery store. each is enough meat for two people, but after one bite you’ll know why it’s safer to order one just for yourself.
Pig Apple Sandwich at Brendyn’s BBQ, Nacogdoches
leaving a layer of granny smith apple slices is not the way to start any regular pork sandwich. the tart apple crisp works well here with the sweet brioche bun and the salty and smoked pulled pork shoulder. a crunchy salad on top and a bit of their mustard barbecue sauce doesn’t hurt either. is an excellent and totally unique sandwich.
dry aged pork ribs at the brewer’s table, austin
These low and slow ribs start with a fourteen-day dry aging hanging in the brewer’s table cooler. A nice jolt of smoke comes from an Aaron Franklin-designed smoker, then the ribs get a final dose of fire on a wood-burning grill. A powder of dried herbs and vegetables is sprinkled in a thin layer over the top, like a more vegetal and refined version of a memphis dry rub. this is the most unique barbecue bite I’ve had all year.
Smoked Sausage at Desert Oak Barbecue, El Paso
richard and suzanne funk have been through many disappointing sausage recipes. then john lewis of charleston’s lewis barbecue gave them some advice. they began to experiment and found a technique and a seasoning that worked for them. crushed red pepper and mustard seeds are added to the standard salt and pepper seasoning. coarse brisket grind and rib trimmings keep it all juicy. It’s full of flavor and lots of heat.
smoked burger at leroy and lewis barbecue, austin
These patties, made with brisket trimmings, are slowly smoked, then browned in a cast-iron skillet heated in the smoker’s combustion chamber. the onions are sautéed in the remaining fat in the pan, and the burger is topped with a slice of American cheese. served on a sweet potato roll, it’s simply a masterpiece.
Three-Meat Plate at LJ’s BBQ, Brenham
Sometimes it’s a bite of barbecue that’s memorable, and sometimes it’s the whole plate. at lj’s i had one of the best combo platters i’ve eaten this year – each bite vied with the last for being the most memorable. I loved the creamy alfredo mac and cheese and the collard greens almost as much as the barbecue. their trio of juicy beef sausages, sweet and spicy pork ribs, and smoked brisket is also hard to beat.
pork steak at matus pit bar-b-q, caldwell
priced at less than $9 a pound, this pork steak might be the best value in texas barbecue. Matus is only open on Saturday and Sunday mornings, and if you wait until noon, the pork tenderloins (and everything else) might be gone. there’s no dining room, so I’ve enjoyed thick slices of pork steak in my car in years past, but I suggest buying a two to three pound whole pork steak and taking it home where you can eat slice after slice in peace. /p>
Pork Belly Burnt End Stuffed Jalapeño at Panther City BBQ, Fort Worth
priced at three for $5, these are easily the best deal at this food truck, which is about to become a brick-and-mortar store. a jalapeno half is stuffed with cream cheese and a cube of pork belly is seared at the end, then wrapped in bacon before a final smoke. it’s great the thin bacon created a crispy exterior, while the charred end underneath is more productive and juicy. the seeds have been removed from the jalapeños, so the flavor of the pepper is noticeable. it’s creative and delicious.
pork ribs in pitforks and smokerings bbq, slaton
isaac arellano smokes meat under the canopy of his father’s old gas station. father and son still work at the auto repair shop next door, but on the weekends the place turns into one of the best new steakhouses I’ve ever visited. they do everything right. the pork ribs, heavily seasoned with black pepper and chili powder, really shine. they are cut thick and smoked until they reach the perfect level of tenderness.
sausage wrap at pustka family barbecue, hutto
dustin pustka drives a small barbecue trailer parked in front of a hutto gas station. the sausage is made according to an old Polish recipe. adds a bit of brisket garnish to the mostly pork links, and the mustard seeds are their own flourish. The links are juicy, smoky, and great for making a classic Texas sausage casing.
smoked oxtails at ray’s bbq shack, houston
Ray Busch longs for the days when oxtails were an inexpensive cut, but he loves the way they come out of his smoker. Every Thursday you can get them as the daily special. the tails are rich in fat and collagen and break off the center bone in bite-sized, salty, smoked nuggets. Give them a dash of hot sauce and savor this distinctive Houston BBQ bite.
Chili Cheese Brisket Sandwich at the Slow Bone, Dallas
The slow bone has offered smoked brisket and smoked brisket chili since it opened. chili works for just about anything, from fritters to tots, but the best place for it is on top of a sliced brisket sandwich. think of it like a meat-based barbecue sauce and add some onions, pickled jalapenos, and even a little cheese. that’s a sandwich that doesn’t need a side.
beef short rib at smokin’ moon, pharr
This huge short rib doesn’t come cheap at smokin’ moon. They don’t smoke small grills, and each rib could probably feed a family of four. they are smeared with hot sauce and seasoned only with salt and pepper before smoking. The meat is tender beneath the solid, smoky crust, and it’s the best menu item at one of the best new grills in Texas.
Sausage Wrap at Tallent Sausage, Riverside
This place is a sausage wonderland. homemade sausage packages in half a dozen varieties greet you at the meat counter. there’s a barbecue counter in the back of the store where you can find a standard menu of smoked meats, but the prize here is the sausage wrap. you can choose between German sausage or the original. both are winners and come on a hot dog bun with pickles, onions, mustard and BBQ sauce to order. get it all for $2.99.
Bonus: Willow’s Texas BBQ in Houston couldn’t be narrowed down to one great bite. Willow Villarreal and Jasmine Barela made the finest complete barbecue meal I had all year. The brisket is spectacular, with a bark that bit back and a supremely supple fattiness. Pork ribs were just the right amount of tender with a simple rub that highlights the smoke and sweetness of the pork rather than adding more sugar to cover it. Sliced smoked turkey breast was well executed and juicy. In the cold of winter I’m yearning for the cool tomato salad, and their jalapeño cream corn is hard to top. It’s simply a great barbecue joint that Houston is lucky to have.