Fredéric Morin David McMillan Meredith Erickson November 2011 The Art of Living According to Joe Beef
Even though peameal has nothing to do with the bacon we know and love, many still refer to it as “Canadian bacon.” They call it that in Canada, the place on both sides of Quebec—joking, joking….Part of the history of Montreal is an overdramatized opposition to Toronto. Maybe it’s hockey, maybe it’s the separatist thing, or maybe it’s just a friendly rivalry. Regardless, we love Toronto. It’s where our favorite butcher, Stephen Alexander, has his shops (Cumbrae’s) and it’s the national capital of oyster bars (Rodney’s, Oyster Boy, Starfish). It’s also home to Kids in the Hall, John Candy, the Black Hoof, and, of course, the Saint Lawrence Market, where you can get a peameal bacon bun with maple mustard.
Watching: Peameal bacon recipe
Peameal is not made with peas anymore. Like most aspects of life, ranging from food to plastic, peameal is being taken over by corn. We make our peameal with dried yellow peas crushed in the processor. The purpose of peas or cornmeal is to wick and dry, thus preventing spoilage. You will let the meat brine for a minimum of four full days, ninety-six hours, in the fridge. It is necessary to have a brine injector; they sell them nowadays for under ten bucks in big stores.
3 quarts (3 liters) cold water1 cup (300 g) maple syrup2/3 cup (150 g) kosher salt2 tablespoons Prague powder #1 cure (optional)10 peppercorns1 tablespoon mustard seeds1 bay leaf4 1/2 pounds (2 kg) boneless leanpork loin1 1/2 cups (215 g) coarse cornmeal or 1 1/2 cups (340 g) dried yellow peas, roughly milled in a food processor
1. In a plastic (preferably) container large enough to hold both the brine and the meat, mix together the water, maple syrup, salt, cure, and spices. 2. Scoop out a scant 1 cup (200 ml) brine, and use it to load the brine injector. Then, inject the loin every 3/4 to 1 inch (2 to 2.5 cm), inserting the needle about 3/4 inch (2 cm) deep. Try to distribute the brine evenly over the loin. Place the loin in the container with the remaining brine, and keep the meat submerged with the help of a plate or an object of a similar build. Cover and refrigerate for 4 full days. 3. Remove the loin from the brine and pat it dry. Then roll it in the meal of your choosing. Give it a day’s rest, uncovered, in the fridge, so the meal and meat form as one. 4. You have two options on cooking it: you can slice it and griddle it for a minute on each side (for thin slices that is), or you can bake it at 375°F (190°C) for about an hour, or until it has a core temperature of 142°F (61°C), then slice it. I like it the first way, especially when it gets a bit burnt on the edges and I have added a dash of maple syrup that caramelizes a bit toward the end.
Frédéric Morin (right) is the co-owner/chef of Joe Beef, Liverpool House, and McKiernan Luncheonette. He attended LÉcole Hôtelière des Laurentides, worked at Jean-Talon Market selling peppers and onions, and served as garde-manger at Toqué! and chef de cuisine at Globe before opening Joe Beef. When he’s not gardening, tinkering in his workshop, or at the restaurants, Fred can be found at home in Montreal with his wife (and the third partner in the restaurants), Allison, and their two sons.
David McMillan is the co-owner/chef of Joe Beef, Liverpool House, and McKiernan Luncheonette. Born and raised in Quebec City, David has been holding court in many of Montreals classic restaurants for close to twenty years. He still practices the cuisine Bourgeoise he learned from his mentor, Nicolas Jongleux, and from living in the Burgundy region of France. When David isn’t at the restaurants, he can be found painting at his studio in Saint Henri or spending time at his cottage in Kamouraska, Quebec, with his wife, Julie, and their two daughters.
See more: L’E – Écrire Un Mail Formel
One of the original members of the Joe Beef Staff, Meredith Erickson has written for various magazines, newspapers, and television series. Currently collaborating on several books, Meredith slits her time between Montreal and London.