How to Connect Drip Irrigation to a Hose Bibb (Spigot or Faucet)

Finding out the best way to water plants can be one of the most challenging parts of gardening. Let’s fix that today! Come learn how to connect drip irrigation to a hose bib (tap or faucet) to create an easy and efficient system for watering your plants. This simple DIY drip irrigation system can be used to provide water to a variety of garden areas, such as flower beds, vegetable gardens, raised garden beds, or even a patio container garden.

Even better, I’ll show you how to automate the system. You won’t even have to think about watering once it’s installed! As for the “installation”, don’t be intimidated. No plumbing skills are required to connect drip irrigation to a hose faucet, I promise.

In this article you will find:

• A supply list required for the project. We found most of these at our local hardware store, but I’ll provide links to the same (or similar) items below.
• A YouTube video that will walk you through the process step by step. by step to connect drip irrigation to a garden hose faucet. It also shows how to set up the drip irrigation system, such as adding various types of drip emitters to the line.
• A written summary of the steps shown in the video, with photos for quick and easy reference.
• If you are interested in installing drip irrigation in raised beds from a hose bib, check out this post (how to install drip tape irrigation in the beds themselves) after reading this article.

Supplies needed to connect drip irrigation to a faucet or hose bib

1. A nearby hose bibb (tap or faucet). Anything within 50 feet or so of the area you want to water will work. (Tip: You can also connect this entire assembly to the end of a garden hose, not just the hose bib, which can further extend your distance.)
2. A faucet adapter, specifically designed to connect drip irrigation to a hose faucet. This part is very important! The adapters contain a pressure reducer, a filter, and a port to connect the ½” irrigation tubing. Sometimes they also include a backflow preventer. Drip irrigation systems are not designed to handle the high pressure coming out of your faucet without reducing it first (up to 20-25 psi). The filter prevents debris from entering and potentially clogging your drip irrigation system.
3. A backflow preventer. It is best to have a backflow preventer in any system irrigation to prevent contaminants from entering your water supply. I didn’t use one in this project/demo video because we’re using a dedicated irrigation line (separate from our house water) that already has a backflow device installed upstream. If you don’t have a backflow preventer already installed, use a 4-in-1 faucet adapter that has a backflow preventer included, OR attach a simple vacuum breaker to your hose faucet before screwing on the 3-in-1 adapter I used . in demonstration.
4. Standard ½” irrigation tubing, which is commonly available in 100-foot coils.
5. Drip emitters of choice such as 1 GPH or 2 GPH drip emitters. You can also connect higher performance micro-sprinklers, bubblers, “dummy plugs” or any other compatible drip accessory to this DIY drip irrigation system.
6. A drill tool, used to add holes and connect emitters to the ½” black supply line. We used a simple hand strike in the video, but this option is much easier to use!

A note on ½” irrigation tubing options and pressure

You should note that it is industry “best practice” not to exceed more than 100 feet of standard solid irrigation pipe, as the system may begin to leak. pressure at the end of longer rides. However, it is true that we have installed irrigation pipes much further away… perhaps as much as 250 feet. The other end had a little less pressure than the beginning, but it still got the job done! You can also add higher flow (GPH) emitters towards the end to compensate if necessary. For very large areas (where more than 200-300 feet of line is needed), it is best to split the system into separate lines that will run at different times if possible, as we are doing via our 2-outlet hose timer.

Also note that there are different types of ½” drip tubing available, such as “pressure compensating” tubing. You have emitters pre-installed in the line every so often, like every 9 inches, 12 inches, 18 inches, etc. That type of irrigation pipe can maintain uniform pressure over much longer distances than standard pipe. However, it limits how much you can customize the system and the water output.

Optional Supplies

• A battery-operated garden hose timer, that will easily automate the system for you. In this particular project we used a 2 outlet hose timer. That way we can eventually connect a separate drip line to the other port, which will also allow us to split our very long fence into two shorter irrigation lines. We use single outlet hose timers in other areas. Simply leave your main faucet ON, set the timer, and it will allow water to flow through your drip system at the time and duration you designate. It’s a total lifesaver!
• A hose splitter or a Y-valve. With this, you can connect your drip irrigation system to a hose bib (on one side of the divider) while maintaining a free outlet for a garden hose, filling watering cans, etc.
• Galvanized landscape clips to maintain drip line in place.
• Clamp figure 8 to terminate the main ½” supply line. (Or crimp the end of the line by folding it back on itself and wrapping it tightly with tape).
• ¼” drip irrigation microtube, which is useful for a ) providing water to an area not immediately adjacent to your line ½” main, b) install emitters in pots or containers, or c) connect micro-sprinklers or bubblers instead of standard drip emitters.
• Connect ½” pipe to tees or other fittings s, if you want to create laterals from your main ½” drip supply line (ie not just have a straight line). Simply cut the black tubing and firmly insert it into the connectors to create the configuration you desire.

Now that we’ve gone over all the supplies needed to connect your drip irrigation to a hose faucet or faucet, let’s see how to set it all up!

Hooking up a drip system Drip Irrigation to a Hose Bib (Demo Video)

How to Connect a Drip Irrigation System to a Hose Bib or Faucet (Written Summary)

Step 1: Add a Drip to Hose Faucet Adapter

Start by deciding exactly how you would like to connect your drip to your hose faucet or faucet. Feel free to follow one of the configuration examples below. For example, if you want to include a wye valve or a hose timer. The most basic installation is to connect the faucet adapter directly to the hose faucet, where you would manually turn the faucet on or off to operate the drip system. Connect the ½” irrigation tubing (supply line) to the adapter by pressing it firmly into the barbed outlet. (Some adapters may have a clamp connection bolted into place.)

Although they are made to be outdoors, protecting your hose timer from direct sun exposure can help prolong its useful life. The sun and heat cause plastic to become brittle over time. So consider covering the timer with an old rag or bucket to protect it.

Step 2: Design the supply line

Next, run the ½” irrigation pipe supply line to the area where you want to supply water. It is best to keep the supply line centered in the landscaped area, or near the base of the plants. Secure the supply line to the ground with garden staples or hook stakes. We usually work ours under the bark mulch layer (if present) to hide the mainline, but wait to do this until we’ve installed all of our drip emitters.

Decide where you want the drip irrigation system to end. Use sharp scissors to cut the tube. Before capping the end of your line, you may want to turn on the water to wash it and clean out any debris first. (Especially if you suspect dirt got into the end of the line while you were laying it down.) Once clear, use a figure-8 clamp to crimp and finish the line. Or, fold the end of the line back on itself and secure with heavy duty tape.

Step 3: Add Drip Emitters

Now it’s time to add the drip emitters of your choice. To install drip emitters along the main irrigation supply line, use a punch tool to create small holes in the tubing at the desired locations. Carefully hold the tube while using the punch, being careful not to fully push both sides of the tube. Insert the barbed end of the drip emitter into the hole and twist into place.

Alternatively, you can supply water to an area further from the main line through microtubes. Use a barbed connector at each end to connect ¼” microtubing to the main supply line. Next, cut the microtube to the desired length and add a drip emitter to the opposite end of the tube. This is a great way to water containers or pots from a drip irrigation system connected to a hose faucet. We also use bubblers or micro-sprinklers to deliver more water (and a larger surface area) to trees in the same drip irrigation system as other plants with lower water needs.

Drip Emitter Options and Watering Frequency

Drip emitters come in various flow rates, typically listed in gallons per hour (GPH). What you choose to use will be based on your unique watering needs. For example, your climate, the types of plants you are growing, and how long and often you plan to run your drip line. It may take a bit of research to find out how much water each plant needs. Check out this quick and helpful guide to watering from the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Or see this more detailed article on watering newly planted trees and shrubs from the University of Minnesota.

In this newly designed area, we installed 2 GPH emitters and ran the system for an hour every 3 days (for now). It is currently our hottest season (September-October), and we get no rain here except in the winter months. We will turn the system off or off once it rains. Also, we may reduce the duration and/or frequency once the plants are more established. We installed one emitter per perennial shrub (verbena, sage, pincushion, sweet bay) as they are all fairly drought tolerant. Shrubs and edible fruit trees (pineapple, guava, blackberries, pomegranates, Meyer lemons) received two emitters, one on each side of their root ball.

Ongoing maintenance

Check your watering system. periodically to make sure everything is working properly. Is the soil moist where desired? Do any plants seem stressed, indicating that they may need more or less water? It’s easy to modify your system by adding additional drip emitters, upgrading certain areas to higher output bubblers, or reducing water by reducing time or frequency. If you use an automatic timer, be sure to check the batteries from time to time. You might also consider upgrading to a solar powered hose timer.

Now turn on your new Make your own irrigation system and enjoy easy and efficient watering!

Well, folks, what do you think? I told you it was going to be easy. All in all, I hope this tutorial makes you feel confident about going out and connecting your drip irrigation to a hose faucet yourself. After all, drip is the most efficient (plant and planet friendly) type of irrigation you can use! I also hope that your new knowledge will empower you to fix neglected areas in your yard where “lack of water” was previously holding you back. If you find this post valuable, feel free to pin or share it. Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. Happy Landscaping!

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